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County
Laois, or Queen's County, Ireland. History, Geography, Description
: 1837
An
inland county of the province of Leinster, bounded on the
east by the counties of Kildare and Carlow and on
the north by Kings county
(Offaly) on the west by the same and Tipperary county
and on the county by the counties of Kilkenny and Carlow.
It extends from 52° 46' to 53° 10' (N. Lat.), and from 6°
56' to 7° 48' (W. Long.); and comprises and area, according
to the ordnance survey, of 396,810 statute acres, of which 335,838
are cultivated land and 60,972 are unprofitable mountain and bog.
The population in 1821, amounted to 134,275; an in 1831 to 145,851.
The
slight notices of Ptolmey respecting the interior of Ireland lead
to the inference that this county was inhabited by the Brigantes;
but Whitaker asserts that the Scoti were the first settlers in it.
Afterwards, it was divided into Leix, which comprehended
all that part of the county contained within the river Barrow
to the north and east, at the river Nore to the south and
the Slieve Bloom mountains to the west; and Ossory
which included the remainder. So early as the middle of the third
century the latter of these divisions, with parts of the adjoining
counties, was ranked as a kingdom, and annexed by Conary, King
of Ireland, to his native dominion of Munster,
instead of being as formerly attached to Leinster. Subsequent
passages of history prove it to have been a district of considerable
importance. When Malachy was forming a confederacy all of the native
princes against the Danes, the king of Ossory was specially required
to conclude a peace with the people of the northern half of the
island, the common enemy; and in the time of Cormac Mac Culinan
he had the command of the first division of that monarch's army
in his unjust and unfortunate invasion of Leinster, and fell in
the battle of Magailbe, in which Cormac himself was slain.
His dominions were afterwards disposed of by Flan, King of Ireland.
St. Patrick visited both Leix and Ossory in his peregrinations through
the island to establish the Christian religion. In the war raged
by Roderic O'Connor, King of Ireland against Dermod MacMurrough,
King of Leinster, which led to the invasion under Strongbow,
the king of Ossory was one of the princes who were specially summoned
by the former of those potentates. The district was then subject
to the Mac Gillypatricks or Fitzpatrick's, who acted with
so much vigour against Mac Murrough that, when the English
had partially established themselves in the country Mac Murough
prevailed on them to join him in an invasion of Ossory, which they
ravaged, notwithstanding the gallant resistance made by Donald
Fitzpatrick, then King. Though defeated, this toparch persevered
in his determination not to treat with Mac Murrough, and
was again defeated and forced to seek refuge in Tipperary.
He
afterwards formed an alliance with Maurice Prendergast, who
upon some offence received from the King of Leinster, had quitted
the service of that monarch, and both invaded the neighbouring territory
of Leix, which they ravaged with little opposition until
O'More, then dynast of it was compelled to apply to Mac
Murrough, by whom, aided by the English, he was quickly reinstated.
Prendergast and Donald subsequently quarrelled and the former
after skilfully extricating himself from an ambuscade laid for him
by the either retired with his followers in safety into Wales. Donald,
although twice defeated was not subdued. The position of his territory
on the confines of Munster and Leinster afforded him opportunities
of intercepting the communications between Waterford and Dublin,
of which he availed himself so effectually, that a league was formed
against him by Strongbow (who on Dermods death had succeeded to
the kingdom of Leinster) and O'Brien, King of Limerick. But
the appeal of arms was prevented by a treaty, in effecting Maurice
Prendergast who had returned to Ireland, rendered his old ally good
service. From this time Donald continued faithfully attached to
his new friends. His territory was the place of rendezvous for their
army when it was preparing to march against Donald O'Brien King
of Limerick who had now declared war against the English; and he
proved his adherence still further by guiding the army through the
woods until it encamped before Limerick.
At
this time the whole of the district forming the Queen's county was
known by the name of Glanmaliere and Leix; the latter
division was made of county palatine; and on the division of the
immense possessions of William, Earl Marshal, between his
five daughters, it was allotted to the youngest, who had married
William de Braosa, Lord of Brecknock. Their daughter Maud,
Married Roger Mortimer, Lord of Wigmore and from this connection
the imperial house of Austria, and the Royal families of Great Britain,
France, Prussia, Denmark, Holland, Sardinia and Saxony derive their
descent. Mortimer preferring to reside on his English estates employed
one of the O'Mores to defend and manage this Irish property,
who, within twenty years after, became so powerful, that he held
it as his own, and became one of the most turbulent opponents of
the English Settlers in that part of the pale. So fully as his authority
recognised as lord of the district that he was summoned by the English
Government to oppose Bruce and the Scots. For two centuries after,
the district was the seat of the O'Mores and the English, which
was carried on without any occurrence of much historical importance
on either side.
During
the same period the Mac Gillipatricks or Fitzpatricks maintained
their independence in Ossory, but generally adhered to the English.
In
the 5th year of Mary, both districts were reduced to shire ground,
and incorporated under the name of Queen's county, the assize
town being named Maryborough, in honour of the Queen. But
this new arrangement did not immediately tranquillise the county.
At the close of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, Owen Mac Rory O'More,
was so powerful that Sir George Carew, president of Munster,
accompanied by the then Earls of Thomond and Ormonde, was induced
to hold a parley with him, to bring him back to his allegiance,
in which they entrapped him in an ambuscade, and the Earl of Ormonde
made prisoner, and detained till he paid a ransom of £3000.
The daring insurgent himself was shortly afterwards killed in a
skirmish with Lord Mountjoy; and the followers of the O'More's
were driven into the counties of Cork and Kerry then nearly depopulated.
At
this juncture many English families, to whom grants of the lands
thus forfeited had been made, settled here. Seven of them whose
founders were most influential in securing the new settlements,
acquired the names of the seven tribes. The families so called were
those of Cosby, Barrington, Hartpole, Bowen, Ruish, Hetherington
and Hovendon or Ovington, of whom the first only has retained
it's possessions; that of Barrington still extant has alienated
its property; all the rest are extinct in the male line. In the
reign of Chas. I, large grants of land were made to Villiers,
Duke of Buckingham, now forming the extensive manor of Villiers,
which has descended through the female line to the present, duke.
In the same reign and, and during the unsettled period of the commonwealth,
the families of Pigott, Coote, Prior, Parnell and Pole
settled here; those of Vesey, Dawson, Staples, Burrowes and Johnson
obtained lands in it after the Revolution.
The
county had its full share of the calamities of the civil war in
1641, at the beginning of which the insurgents secured Maryborough,
Dunamase and other places of strength. The Earl of Ormonde arriving
at Athy from Dublin, detached parties for their relief; on his retreat
the whole of the county submitted to General Preston, but
was forced again to submit to the royal arms. In 1646, Owen Roe
O'Nial, seized upon several forts init. In 1650 Cromwell's forces
entered the county and met with much resistance; in the course of
the struggle most of it's fortresses were dismantled by his Generals
Hewson and Reynolds.
During
the Revolution of 1688, a signal victory was gained by the troops
of William as a noted togher or bog pass near Cappard, where
they defeated a much superior number of the Irish after the termination
of the war, the country was so harassed by the ravages of the reparees
that the resident gentlemen applied to King William to have a force
of infantry and dragoons quartered in it, and specified the Castle
of Lea as one of the principle stations for their reception.
The
county is partly in the diocese of Killaloe, partly in those of
Dublin and Gleandalough, partly in that of Kildare, but chiefly
in those of Ossory and Leighlin. For purposes of civil jurisdiction
it is divided into the baronies of Ballyadams, Cullinagh, Maryborough
East, Maryborough West, Portnehinch, Slievemargue, Stradbally,
Tinnehinch and Upper Ossory. It contains the greater part of
the borough and market town of Portarlington;
the disfranchised borough, market and assize town of Maryborough;
the ancient corporate and post town of Ballinakill;
the market and post towns of Mountmellick,
Mountrath, Stradbally
and Abbeyleix; the post towns of
Burros in Ossory (Borris in
Ossory); Rathdowney, Ballybrittas,
Clonaslee and Ballyroan;
and the suburb of the borough of Carlow called Graigue;
the largest villages are those of Ballylinan,
Castletown, Emo, Newtown
and Arles.
It
sent eight members to the Irish parliament, two for the county at
large and two for each of the boroughs of Portarlington,
Maryborough and Ballinakill.
Since the Union it has been represented by three members, two for
the county and one for Portarlington; the election for the
county takes place at Maryborough.
The
constituency, as registered up to Feb 1st, 1836, consisted of 405
£50, 270 £20 and 1210 £10 freeholders; 3 £50,
16 £20, rent chargers; and 37 clergymen of £50, in right
of their respective incumbencies; 3 of £20 and 2 of £10
making a total of 2143 registered voters.
Queen's
county is included in the Home Circuit; the assizes are held
at Maryborough, Mountmellick,
Mountrath, Stradbally,
Burros in Ossory and Abbeyleix
twice in the year at each of these places. The county gaol is at
Maryborough, and there are bridewells in Burros in Ossory
and Abbeyleix.
The
local government is vested in a lieutenant, 18 deputy lieutenants
and 82 other magistrates; besides whom there are the usual county
officers, including four coroners. There are 42 stations of the
constabulary police, having a force of a sub-inspector, 9 chief
officers, 45 sub-constables, 291 men and 15 horses; besides which
there are three station s of peace preservation police. The amount
of the Grand Jury presentments in 1835 was £21,575.15.7, of
which £293.16.0 was for the roads, bridges &c., of the
county at large; £4124.10s.0 1/4 d., for those of the baronies;
£9835.15s.0 3/4d., for public buildings, charities, officers
salaries and incidents; £6680.8s.2d., for the police; and
£541.0s.5d., for the repayment of advances made by the Government.
The
district lunatic asylum for the Queen's and King's counties (Laois
& Offaly), Westmeath and Longford, is at Portlaoise(Maryboro);
as is also the county infirmary, and there are dispensaries at
Abbeyleix, Balymoyler,
Ballybrittas, Ballinakill,
Clandonagh, Errill, Mountrath, Mountmellick,
Newtown, Coleraine (Coolraine) , Portarlington,
Rathdowney, Stradbally,
Swan, Balickmoyler, Burros
in Ossory and Clonaslee which
are supported by Grand jury presentments and private subscriptions,
in the proportion of one third of the former to two thirds of the
latter. In the military arrangement it is included in the eastern
district, and contains one barrack for infantry at Maryborough,
constructed for the reception of 61 non-commissioned officers and
men.
The
surface of the county is either generally flat or gently undulating
with small hills, exhibiting a pleasing variety rather than a picturesque
effect. The inequality is mostly caused by eskers, ridges of which
traverse the county in several parts, they are mostly formed around
nodules of limestone, calcareous sandstone and coal shale, the parent
rock of which are found in the county or close to its confines.
The principal of these eskers called the Ridge, rises near
Athlone (Co. Westmeath) and thence proceeds across the King's
county(Offaly), enters the Queen's county at Mountmellick and
proceeds to Rathleague through the extremity of Maryborough
(Portlaoise), forming in this county an unbroken line about 6 miles
long, varying in height from 12 to 45 feet, being generally broad
at the base and narrowing upwards to the width of a few feet. Near
the same place very copious springs bursts from it, called the 'Blessed
Well of Maryborough', and much resorted to by the peasantry
who perform devotional ceremonies, called stations around it. Beyond
Rathleague, the esker maintains a south eastern course, and
are broken and interrupted but they soon resume a regular ridge
like form and divide into two branches one southwards towards the
Doon of Clopoke and the other eastwards towards Stradbally,
again forming an unbroken line of more than miles.
The
tract extending from Urlingford in Kilkenny County, to Dawson's
Grove near Monastereven in the confines of county Kildare
is the most improved of any in Leinster. It is generally well planted,
not in isolated patches close to the mansion houses, but over the
whole face of the landscape, so as to give it much the appearance
of an English woodland scene. The Dysart hills which are
situated in this rich tract of country, add much to its variety
and beauty; they are wholly composed of limestone, and their direction
is north and south between the baronies of Maryborough, Stradbally
and Cullinagh, not forming a continuous elevation, but in
most cases standing singly; the Rock of Dunamase and Doon
of Clopoke are two of the most striking of them. To the west
the land rises in the lofty range of the Slieve Bloom mountains,
which form a marked line of division between this and the King's
county: their summit is called the 'Height of Ireland', from
a popular opinion that it is the most elevated point in the island;
near it is the pass of Glandine, a narrow defile, impassable
for carriages and forming the only mountain communication between
the King's(offaly)and Queen's(Laoise) counties. The northern side
of the mountains of this range is very fertile while the southern
though more exposed to the genial influences of the sun is nearly
barren and mostly covered with heath. Towards the southern boundary
of the county the ground rises into the Slievemargue hills,
which separate it from Kilkenny. The only lake is that of Lough
Duff on the border of the King's county to which one half of
it is considered to belong.
The
soil, which rests chiefly on a substratum of limestone, varies from
a stiff clayey loam, well adapted to the growth of wheat, to light
sand which however produces good barley, turnips and potatoes. In
the Slieve Bloom mountains the surface inclines to a black and in
some parts a yellow clay, of unequal depth covering a mouldering
rock or gritty gravel, it's general character is spongy wet boggy
even where highest and very rocky. The Dysart hills are fertile
to their summits, which, though too steep for the plough afford
rich pasturage for sheep. The soil of the southern barony of Culinagh
is gravely siliceous clay towards the mountains; in the central
parts it is a rich loam and in the south, light and sandy; the largest
bullocks in the county are fattened on the rich pastures in the
low lands. In the northern barony of Portnehinch the soil is light
and unproductive, unless in some favoured spots where a persevering
course of judicious cultivation has improved it's character.
Bogs
are frequent in every part, chiefly about
Maryborough; they may all be considered branches of the
great central Bog of Allen. The turf from them yields both white
and red ashes; that affording the latter is most esteemed either
for manure or fuel. In some places are large tracts of marshy land
called callows, which are inundated during winter but in summer
afford excellent pasturage. The land on the banks of the Barrow
is alluvial and forms rich and valuable meadows, The average size
of farms, particularly in the tillage districts, is not more than
from 12 to 14 acres; some noblemen and landed proprietors hold large
tracts of land in their own hands, the superior cultivation of which
is very effective as a leading example towards the general improvement
of agriculture in the county. Wheat is not generally grown even
in the mountain districts; barley is also extensively cultivated;
potato and oats form an essential part of the rotation system. Green
crops are often seen, particularly turnips of which the Swedish
is the most esteemed; rape and vetches are extensively raised; clover
is to be seen everywhere. flax is planted only in small quantities
for domestic consumption. The implements and carriages employed
in rural economy are generally of the most improved description;
both bullocks and horses are used in ploughing, generally in pairs,
where the soil is very stiff, two pairs of the latter are sometimes
put in the same team. The manures are line and limestone gravel,
here called corn gravel, procured with little labour or expense,
and composts from the farm yard. The common fence s of white thorn
plant on ditches well constructed but too often subsequently neglected;
stone walls are also raised for the same purposes, particularly
for the demesnes of the nobility and gentry. All the improved breeds
of English cattle have been introduced into the county. The most
esteemed dairy cows are a cross between a Durham and native breed,
as they are good milkers of large size and easily fattened. Dairies
are numerous and productive, cheese is made in small quantities;
but butter which is of very good quality is the chief produce. Pigs
are reared in very great numbers; no farmhouse is without them,
but the breed is inferior to that in the southern counties; the
small farmers and cottiers also keep goats. The horse's area light
small boned, active race good for saddle but not well fitted for
heavy agricultural use.
A
great part of the county particularly the mountainous districts
to the north west was once covered with timber, in proof of which
it may be stated that in the neighbourhood of Lough Annagh, oak,
fir and yew trees are found in numbers lying a few feet below the
surface, some of the roots adhering to the trunks and others remaining
in their original position, the trunks having been burned off and
the charred cinder adhering in all tits freshness to both trunk
and root; large trunks and roots of trees are also perceptible in
the lake with their timber sound and remarkable tough. In the reign
of Elizabeth, Captain Leigh received the thanks of that Queen
for having valiantly led the English cavalry from Birr to Athy through
the woods and forests of Oregan. The country has since been entirely
cleared of its old woods; but new plantations have sprung up in
most parts. The farmhouses like the farms are generally small; many
have neat gardens and orchards, which, with the hedgerow trees,
give them the appearance of much rural comfort. Draining and irrigation
are but little attended to.
The
principal portion of the county belongs to the great floetz limestone
filed which forms the base of the greater part of the level country
of Ireland; the Slieve Bloom mountains in the north west, are of
the sandstone variation, and at the Slievemargue in the south east
the coal formation commences near Timahoe, and extends east and
south east to the Barrow and southwards almost to the Nore. It forms
the northern extremity of the Kilkenny field, from which only a
small river separates it, and the coal is n every respect similar
in each part; the portion included in the Queen's county extends
about 3 miles by 2. The strata range is in Kilkenny, but the dip
being to the west, the pits on this side are deeper. There are five
collieries at work; namely Newtown, Wolf Hill, Doonane,
Poulakele and Moydebegh; those of Rushes and Tolerton,
though very valuable, are not wrought at present The pits at Newtown
are from 45 to 48 years deep, all those around Moydebegh are from
61 to 64 years. The coal at Newtown and Doonane is equal to the
best Kilkenny coal and sells at 20s per ton. Hence the poor people,
even in the immediate vicinity of the pits cannot afford to use
it, and it is entirely purchased by maltsters, brewers, distillers
and smiths by who it is much sought after inasmuch as, being almost
pure carbon, without any admixture of bitumen, it requires no preliminary
preparation even for malting purposes; it is conveyed to all the
surrounding counties chiefly on one horse carts. In the summer of
1836, 64 pits were at full work, for unwatering, which five steam
engines were employed, but the coal is mostly raised by horses.
The works furnished employment to 700 men and the value of the coal
raised is estimated upwards of £78,000 per annum. Yet, notwithstanding
thee advantages there workmen from their irregular and inconsiderate
habits are miserable poor; and the district is frequently disturbed
by broils and tumults; so that police stations are thickly distributed
throughout this portion of the country iron ore shows itself in
some parts and mines were wrought until the failure of the supply
of timber for fuel caused them to be relinquished; a branch of the
iron manufacture which had been successfully carried out at Mountrath
when timber was plentiful has been discontinued for the same reason.
Copper
and Manganese have also been found. Slate quarries have been opened
at Roundwood in Offerlane and at Cappard. Near Mountmellick
are quarries of soft siliceous sandstone, which is wrought in to
chimneypieces and hearthstones that are in great demand. Ochre,
fullers' earth, and potters clay are met with. Potteries have long
been established in the neighbourhood of Mountmellick, in which
large quantities of tiles, crocks and garden pots are made.
The
other manufactures are confined to cottons, flannels, friezes and
stuffs of a coarse durable kind for the clothing of the peasantry.
Much broad cloth was woven in Mountmellick for the Dublin market,
and a broad stuff called 'Durants' was also manufactured three and
at Maryborough; but the trade has long declined. The same observation
is applicable to serges, the use of which has been in a great measure
superseded by that of cotton cloth. Cotton factories were erected
at Cullinagh, Abbeyleix and on the Barrow near Athy,
but all failed; the only one at present in the county is at Mountrath.
In Mountmellick are an iron foundry and extensive breweries,
a distillery and tanneries. At Donoughmore is a very extensive
starch manufactory, the produce of which is almost exclusively sent
to Dublin. Flour mills at Mountmellick, Coleraine, Maryborough,
Castletown, Rathdowney, Donoughmore, Abbeyleix and Stradbally,
besides several in other parts are each capable of manufacturing
12,000 barrels of flour annually.
The
Nore is the only river of any magnitude that passes through
the county; it rises in the Slieve bloom mountains and enters Kilkenny
near Durrow, receiving in this part of its course the Tonnet with
its branch stream the Dolour, the Old Forge river, the Cloncoose
with its branches the Cromoge and Corbally, the Trumry,
the Colt, and the Erkin or Erkenny. The Barrow,
which rises in the same mountain range, and forms the northern part
of the eastern boundary of the county, receives the Blackwater,
the Trihogue and the Owenass or Onas; it is navigable for barges
from Athy downwards and quits the county for that of Carlow at Cloghgrennan.
The Grand canal enters the county at Clogheen near Monastereven
and is carried along near its eastern boundary for eight miles to
Blackford, where it re-enters county Kildare and shortly afterwards
communicates with the Barrow at Athy. Portarlington has carried
a branch from Monastereven to Mountmellick. The roads are numerous
throughout every part of the county; in general they are well laid
out and kept in good order. The intended railway from Dublin to
Kilkenny is to cross the Barrow from Kildare at Ardree below Athy
and will proceed by Milford, Grange, Shruel and Graigue
to Cloghgrennan and proceed thence by Leighlin Bridge to
the city of Kilkenny.
Relics
of antiquity of every description known in Ireland are to be found
here. There is a pillar to nearly perfect at Timahoe, in
a valley near the ruin of a monastic building. On Kyle hill,
about two miles from Burros in Ossory, is a rude seat of
stone, called by the common people the Fairy Chair, which is supposed
to have been an ancient judgement seat of Brehons. Near the southwestern
verge of the county is an ancient Irish fortress, called Baunaughra
or 'Ka?? Strength' little known because of its retired situation
on top of a high hill surrounded by a deep circular fosse with a
mound or wall on the summit. The other principle relics are described
under the headings of the parishes in which they are situated. Monastic
institutions, of a very early date were numerous, most of them have
so completely fallen into decay that even their site cannot now
be ascertained.
The
ruins of Aghaboe, whither the seat
of the See of Ossory, was removed from its original situation Saiger
in the King's County until its final removal to Kilkenny, still
exist in such a state of preservation to afford some idea of the
extent and character of the buildings. The ruins of Aghmacart
are also visible as are traces of those of Killedelig, Killermogh,
Mun??hid or Disert Chuilin, and Teampul-na-cailliagh-
Near Aghaboe.
The
churches of Dysartnos and Kilbane have been preserved as
parish churches. The site of the monastery of Leix is known only
by the town of Abbeyleix; that of Timahoe is conjectured with much
probability from the round tower there, Rostuirc was near
the Slieve Bloom mountains; Stradbally or Monaubealing stood
near the town of Stradbally; Teagh Schotin and Slatey in Slievemargue;
the sites of Cluainchaoin and Clua?murchir, Disert Fularthaigh,
Disert Odrain, Kilfoe and Leamchuiil or Lahoil are wholly
unknown.
The
remains of military antiquities is the rock of Dunamase, described
in the account of the parish of Dysartnos. Lea castle on
the river Barrow, eight miles from Dunamase is supposed to
have been built around the same period, its architecture much resembling
that of the other and it was further secured by its natural position,
being protected on one side by the Barrow and on the other by a
deep morass; it as incapable however, of holding out against Cromwell
by whom it was taken and destroyed. The castles of Shean,
Lord Mortimer built Ballymanus and five others in the same
part of the county, as posts of defence for the English tenants
whom he endeavoured to settle on his estates. Shean or Sim castle
was built on a conical hill; though not of great extent; it as of
considerable strength, but not a vestige of it is now in existence.
Burros
in Ossory was a stronghold on the Nore, belonging to the
Fitzpatrick's and a great pass to Munster; it was a scene
of very bloody engagement during the war of 1641. Ballygihin,
Castletown, Watercastle and Castlefleming
with several others belonged to the branches of the same family.
Shanbogh in the same district was a castellated mansion,
which served as a protection against the repartees who infested
the deep woods with which this part of Ireland was then covered,
Grantstown, Ballagh, C??Byrne, Gortneclay, Coolkerrry and
Kilbreedy are all in the same barony. Castlecuff in
Tinnehinch built about 1641 by Sir Charles Coote celebrated
for his military prowess is a very large ruin; he also built the
castle at Ruish-hall. The castles of Clara, Ballinakill,
Coolamona, Tinnehinch and Castlebrack are in the same
district; the last named contains some subterraneous apartments,
which were opened and partially explored, but presenting nothing
more than small caves and the air being very foul, no attempt was
made to penetrate to any extremity of any of them. The ruins of
an old castle at Ballyadams,
which gives name to the barony, are still visible; another is to
be seen at Grange. Shrule Castle
was in the southwestern extremity of the county near the town
of Carlow. The entrance into the ruins of Cloghgrennan castle
separated the county of Carlow from the Queen's(Laoise) county.
The remains of Rathspeck castle
were applied to the building of the nearby parish church. A conical
heap of stonesion the summit of a very lofty hill, near the boundary
of Stradbally barony is known by the name of Cobler's castle.
The modern mansions of the nobility and gentry are noticed under
the heads of their respective parishes.
The
middle classes of the gentry pay much attention to the improvement
and embellishment of their grounds; their dwelling houses are handsome
and convenient with suitable offices. The habitations of the peasantry
though in many parts superior to those of neighbouring counties
are very deficient in appearance of in internal comfort.
Abbeyleix and Castletown
are the exceptions, much attention being paid to the houses there;
in the baronies of Maryborough and upper Ossory they are comfortable
but in the northern barony of Tinnehinch they are very poor, being
little better than hovels, and in the neighbourhood of the collieries
still worse. A plot of ground from half an acre to an acre is generally
attached to the peasant's hut, as a potato garden, for which he
pays in labour from 20s to 50s rent. The fuel throughout the entire
county is turf, the coal being used exclusively for manufacturing
purposes, wood was formerly so abundant that a clause was introduced
into many old leases binding the tenant to use no other kind of
fuel; and at the present time the ancient custom of dues and services
is inserted in many leases.
A
strong attachment to old customs is pointed out as being one of
the characteristics of the peasantry; but that this adherence is
not caused by prejudice alone is proved by their adoption of improved
practises of agriculture, when the success of others had ultimately
convinced them of their superior advantages. Another fact illustrative
of this observation, is that the peasantry in all parts, even in
the mountainous districts speak English fluently, the Irish never
being heard except with some of the very old people.
The
custom of frequenting wells for devotional purposes is declining
fast. Of the Chalybeate springs the most remarkable are those of
Cappard, Mountmellick, Killeshin
and Portarlington; the first
named being the strongest, but none of them are in much repute for
their sanative qualities beyond their own immediate neighbourhood.
There
is a very singular curiosity called the Cut of Killeshin,
about three miles from Carlow town, on the road to the collieries.
It is a pass through a lofty hill above half a mile long, and from
10 to 40 feet deep according to the rise of the ground, but not
more than four feet four inches wide, cut through solid rock, so
that cars have barely room to pass along it. The constant flow of
water and the friction of the carriage wheels have occasioned this
extraordinary excavation. The carrier as he approached the gap at
either end, shouted loudly, and the sound was easily conveyed to
the other extremity through the excavation. Should the cars have
met within the cut, the driver of the empty car was bound to back
out, a task of no small difficulty along this narrow and ill constructed
road. A new road has been opened, which has obviated the necessity
of making use of this pass. Contiguous to this cut are the ruins
of Killeshin church, with an antique and highly ornamented entrance
archway, surrounded by an inscription in Saxon characters now illegible.
Adjoining the church was a rath with a deep fosse. This place was
remarkable for once having been the chief town in the county, though
not a stone building of is now standing, except the ruin just mentioned
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