ARKLOW,
a sea-port, market and post-town, and a parish, in the barony of ARKLOW,
county of WICKLOW, and province of LEINSTER, 12 miles (S.) from
Wicklow town ,and 40 miles (S. by E.) from Dublin; containing
6309 inhabitants, of which number, 4383 are in the town.
This place,
formerly called ‘Arclogh’ and ‘Alercomshed’,
appears to have been occupied as a fishing station from time immemorial.
It was included in one of those grants of territory for which Hen, II.,
in 1172, caused service to be done at Wexford ; and by an original charter,
preserved among the rolls of Kilkenny Castle, it appears that John,
Lord of Ireland, granted and confirmed the castle and town of Arclogh,
with all their appurtenances, to Theobald Fitzwalter, hereditary
lord-butler of Ireland. Fitzwalter founded here a monastery, which he
dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, for monks of the Cistertian order,
whom he brought from the abbey of Furness, in Lancashire. The barony,
which with the chief butlery always descended to the next heir male,
was inherited by Theobald, the third of that name, who died here on
the 26th of September, 1285, and was buried in the abbey church, under
a tomb ornamented with his effigy. In 1281, a battle was fought near
this place between the English and the Irish, in which the latter were
totally defeated by Stephen de Fulborne, Bishop of Waterford
and Lord Justiciary of Ireland; and in 1316, the O'Tooles and
O'Byrnes, who had risen in arms and burnt Arklow, Bray,
and Newcastle, with all the neighbouring villages were defeated
on the 16th of April by Edward le Boteler. In 1331, the castle
was taken by the O’Tooles, but was retaken by Lord de
Birmingham; and in the year following it was again taken by the
Irish, who were finally repulsed by Sir Anthony Lucy, who repaired
the fortifications and strengthened the garrison.
In 1641,
the castle was surprised by a party of insurgents, and the garrison
put to the sword; and being after-wards held for the royalists, it was,
in 1649, assaulted by Oliver Cromwell in his victorious march
southward, and on its surrender was totally demolished. During the disturbances
of 1798, a battle was fought near Arklow bridge, between the
king's troops, under the command of Gen. Needham, and the insurgents,
in which the latter were defeated and their leader shot; among the slain
on the side of the royal forces was Thomas Grogan Knox, Esq.,
of Castletown, cornet of the 5th dragoon guards, to whose memory
a neat marble tablet has been placed in the church.
The town
is situated on the acclivity of a hill extending along the right bank
of the river Ovoca, and on the mail coach road from Dublin
to Wexford. The Ovoca, after winding through the beautiful and
romantic vale to which it gives name, passes under a bridge of nineteen
arches at this place, and discharges itself into the sea., about 500
yards below the town. It is divided into the Upper and Lower Towns,
which latter is called the "Fishery;" and in 1831 it
contained 702 houses. The houses in the Upper Town, which consists
of one principal street, are neatly built; those in the Lower Town,
which is chiefly inhabited by fishermen, are mostly thatched cabins.
The inhabitants are amply supplied with water from numerous excellent
springs, but no works have been established to convey it to their houses
and the only improvement that has recently taken place is the macadamising
of the principal street, and the laying down of foot pavements. On the
site of the ancient castle are barracks for two companies of infantry.
The principal
trade is the fishery, which was formerly very an lucrative, having two
seasons in the year; one in May, which has lately ceased; and the other
in November, which, though still continued, has become so unproductive
as scarcely to remunerate the persons employed in it. The fishery, in
1835, employed about 200 boats in the herring fishery and in dredging
for oysters, of the latter of which great quantities are taken off the
coast in some years, and sent to different parts of Ireland and to England.Formerly
much of the copper ore from the Wicklow mines, which are situated
nearly midway between this town and Rathdrum, was shipped from
this port during the summer season; and some trade is still carried
on in the importation of coal. The want of a safe harbour in which the
fishermen might shelter during bad weather, which for two or three seasons
has prevailed on this coast, has been severely felt, there being no
port between Kingstown and Waterford into which they can run for shelter,
and many lives are annually lost. The harbour is accessible only for
small boats, as the passage is sinuous and subject to shifting Bands.
The market
is on Thursday; and fairs are held on Jan. 11th, March 22nd, April 19th,
May 14th, June 28th, Aug. 9th, Sep. 25th, and Nov. 15th, chiefly for
the sale of woollen cloth, cattle, sheep, and pigs. A constabulary police
station has been established here; and on the north side of the river,
in the parish of Kilbride, is a coast-guard station belonging
to the Gorey district. The petty sessions for the barony of Arklow
are held every Thursday, in a neat court-house rented by the magistrates
for that purpose, and of which the lower part is appropriated to the
use of the savings' bank.
The parish,
which is situated at the south-eastern a extremity of the county, and
intersected by the river Ovoca, comprises 5851 statute acres, as applotted
under the tithe act. The surface is broken, abrupt, and mountainous
; the soil towards the coast, and in the inlets between the hills is
rich, and abounds with excellent marl, which, together with lime, is
used for manure. The system of agriculture has been greatly improved,
under the auspices of the Agricultural Society; the drill husbandry
is practised where the soil will admit of it, and green crops have been
partially introduced. The mountain of Croghan Kinshela, towards the
close of the last century, became an object of intense interest from
its supposed production of native gold; a peasant fishing in one of
the streams which descended from it discovered, at different times,
small particles of gold, which for about 12 years he continued to sell
privately to a goldsmith, till, in September 1796, the discovery became
known, and thousands of persons engaged in the search for this precious
metal, Several masses of extraordinary size were found, one of which
weighed nine, another eighteen, and a third twenty-two ounces; and so
great was the number of the peasantry allured to the spot by the hope
of enriching themselves, that in the short space of six or seven weeks,
during which the washing of the sands was continued, not less than 2666
ounces of pure gold were obtained, which were sold for £ 10,000.
After the people had continued their searches for little more than six
weeks, Government took possession of the mine, and stationed a party
of the Kildare militia to prevent further encroachment; all act of parliament
was passed for working it, and Messrs. Weaver, Mills and King were appointed
directors of the operations. Steam-works were established on several
rivulets which descended from the mountain; and from this time till
May 1798, when the works were destroyed in the insurrection of that
disturbed period, the total quantity of gold found was 944 oz., 4 dwts.,
and 15 grs., which was sold for £3675 8sh. 0d. In 1801 the mining
operations were resumed, and on the representation of the directors,
Government was induced to extend the search upon a more systematic principle:
the stream-works were continued to the heads of the several streams,
and the solid mass of the mountain was more minutely examined, by cutting
trenches in every direction down to the firm rock. The veins already
known, and such as were afterwards discovered by the process of trenching,
were more extensively explored and their depth minutely ascertained,
by means of a gallery, or level, driven into the mountain at right angles
to the general range of their direction. The mineral substances thus
obtained were subjected to a rigid chymical analysis, but in no instance
was a single particle of gold discovered; the result of these operations
convinced Government that no gold existed as an inherent ingredient
in any of the veins which traversed the mountain, and the works were
consequently abandoned.
The environs
of Arklow are much admired for the beauty, richness, and variety of
their scenery; the banks of the Ovoca are embellished with handsome
seats, and the sides of the vale with woods of luxuriant growth. Shelton
Abbey, the seat of the Earl of Wicklow, though in the parish
of Kilbride, forms a conspicuous and interesting feature in the
scenery of this parish ; it is beautifully situated on the north bank
of the river, and at the base of a range of hills of gentle elevation,
richly wooded with oak and birch. The mansion, which was remodelled
some years since by the Messrs. Morrison, is a low quadrilateral
edifice with two principal fronts, richly embellished with decorated
pinnacles, and resembling all ecclesiastical structure of the 14th century,
converted into a baronial residence at a subsequent period; the entrance-hall
is wainscoted with carved oak, and the ceiling delicately enriched with
fan tracery, of which the pendants are gilt; the great hall, gallery,
and state apartments, are all in a style of corresponding richness and
elegance; the library contains all exceedingly valuable collection of
works made by a learned member of the family; and the cloisters are
in a style of appropriate beauty. The demesne, which comprises more
than 1000 statute acres, is ornamented with some of the most stately
beech and chestnut trees in the island; and the whole forms one of the
most delightful retreats in this romantic part of the country. During
the temporary sequestration of the family estates at the time of the
Revolution, Jas. II., on his flight to Waterford, after the battle of
the Boyne, was entertained at Shelton Abbey by the party then in possession
; and there is still a road within the demesne which is called King
James's road.
Glenart,
a castellated mansion belonging to the Earl of Carysfort, and
at present occupied by his lordship's brother, the Hon. Capt. Proby.
R, N is situated on the south bank of the Ovoca, nearly opposite
to the abbey, on a gentle slope in a very retired spot, commanding from
the high grounds some fine views of the sea and of the richly wooded
hills of Shelton Abbey and Bally-Arthur. Ballyrane,
the seat of the Rev. T. Quin, is a handsome modern house, pleasantly
situated within a mile of the town, of which it commands a fine view,
and also of the sea. Lambarton, the seat of Capt, Hore, R,N.,
is beautifully situated in the midst of fine plantations, and commands
delightful views of the sea and the demesnes of Shelton and Bally-Arthur,
terminating in the magnificent range of mountains in the neighbourhood
of Lugna-quilla. Emma Vale, the seat of D. Wright,
Esq., is situated about a mile to the south west of the town; the
house has been enlarged and improved, the plantations are tastefully
laid out, and the prospect comprehends a fine view of Glenart woods
and mansion, Bally Arthur and the distant part of Shelton demesne, and
an extensive range of mountain scenery, Elton, about half a mile
to the south, is a commodious house occupying a healthful situation.
The living
is a vicarage, in the diocese of Dublin and Glendalough, to which
the greater portion of the rectory, which formerly belonged to the abbey
of Woney, was united in the year 1673, subject to a reserved rent
of £3-12sh. ; and to which also the vicarage of Enorily
and the perpetual curacies of Killahurler,
Kilbride, and Templemichael,
and part of the rectory of Kilgorman, were united from time immemorial
till 1833, when they were, with the exception of Killahurler and
Kilgorman, separated from it by act of council and made a distinct
benefice; leaving only Arklow and Killahurler, with part of Kilgorman,
to constitute the vicarial union, which is in the patronage of the Archbishop.
The other portion of the rectory is impropriate in W. Johnson and
D. Howell, Esqrs. The tithes amount to £230-15s 4¾
d., of which £46 8s 7½ d., is payable to the lay impropriators,
and the remainder to the incumbent; and the gross tithes of the union
payable to the incumbent amount to £250 8s. 8d. The church, situated
in the principal street of the town, was erected in 1823, at an expense
of £2000, of which sum £1100 was granted on loan by the
late Board of First Fruits ; and in 1829 it was enlarged, at an expense
of £1200; granted by the same Board, in consideration of which
grant the additional sittings are free. It was built after a design
by Mr. Johnson, and is in the later English style, with a square
tower. A grant of £249 has been lately made by the Ecclesiastical
Commissioners for its repair.
In the
R, C. divisions this parish is the head of a union or district,
which comprehends the parishes of Arklow, Killahurler,
and Ballintemple, in the county of Wicklow,
and of lnch and Kilgorman
in the county of Wexford. The chapel is a handsome modern structure,
situated opposite to the remains of the ancient castle ; and there are
chapels also at Johnstown, Castletown, and Ballycowgue,
to all of which schools are attached.
There
is a small place of worship for Wesleyan Methodists.
About
320 children are instructed in the several public schools, of which,
a boys' school is supported by the Trustees of Erasmus Smith's charity,
two for girls are aided by Mrs. Proby, and an infants' school
is maintained by voluntary contributions; and there are six private
schools, in which are about 240 children, and Sunday schools. A fever
hospital and dispensary was erected in 1821, at an expense of £550,
of which sum, £400 was presented by the grand jury , and the remainder
was raised by subscription ; it is a neat square building, in a healthy
situation just without the town.
The only
relic of the ancient castle is a small fragment mantled with ivy, situated
on an eminence above the river and adjoining the barracks. The cemetery
of the Cistertian abbey is still used as a burying place by the Roman
Catholics. Arklow gives the title of Baron, in the peerage of Ireland,
by creation, to his Royal Highness the Duke of Sussex, and by
tenure to the noble family of Butler, Marquesses of Ormonde.
